Track Soldering

To the bottom of the rail

Click on any image to enlarge


A section of Code 70 track mounted on doublesided tape for this demo. The tape represents the cork road bed. Shown are two fluxes - the Cars Green - but orange or yellow are just as good and Brunel No. 3 from Melbourne.

I use 0.7mm solder - from Jaycar and the soldering iron is 60 watts set at 280c. The iron needs to be at least 40 watts to avoid any melting of sleepers/ties.
Drill the roadbed and baseboard just out side the rail ready for the feeder wire.
With a small brush, apply some flux to the bottom of the rail where you are going to solder the wire.
Apply some solder to the underside of the rail - normally the iron on the outside and the solder on the inside - will only take a couple of seconds.
Pass the stripped feeder wire through the roadbed and tin the wire.
Put a bend in the end of the wire as shown with a needle nose pliers.
Push the bent wire under the rail as shown, use a pair of tweezers to "hide" it under the rail.
Apply the soldering iron for a few seconds and it is all in place - move to the next one.

I suggest you practice with another piece of rail to get the feel right. This was done in a hurry today and has not been tidied up yet.
This is an old PECO turnout, you can see the wires between the outer and inner rail on each side. This eliminates the problems between the point rail and running rail when using DCC.

You can also see the cuts nearer the frog than the ones supplied. Both the wires shown and any other connection would be soldered as above.
Just for the hell of it, this shows some N scale track and a hand laid turnout.